Brit Abroad...San Marino
La Florita vs SC Faetano
Campionato Sammarinese
The Most Serene Republic of San Marino. Not your typical football destination, in fact, not your typical destination full stop. "Where is San Marino?", "Is San Marino in Italy?" were regular questions being asked. San Marino is a fascinating micro state completely surrounded by Italy, and is the world's oldest republic. To put it into perspective, Madrid is almost ten times bigger, Loch Ness is almost the same size, and Heathrow Airport could cover 20% of this nation that just over 30,000 people call home. But, as I'm often told size isn't everything, and for a nation ranked last in the FIFA rankings, there is still a thriving football scene to be found, you just have to search it out. And, with that World Cup going on, some football with a heartbeat was needed.
Getting there was the first challenge, as San Marino has no airport or train station. A flight into Bologna and a probably too fast drive down the Autostrada, followed by a border crossing was all that was needed! Up and up and up, hairpin after hairpin, and all of a sudden no visibility, barely two meters ahead could be seen, what felt like the thickest fog. It turns out the trusty rental car was just breaking through the clouds to reach the capital (also called San Marino!) It's a Fairytale town, straight from a Dickens novel. Just the over side of a grand Roman gateway lies a Christmas market, no doubt adding to the magic, and the Palazzo Publica looking resplendent.
Ahead of navigating to todays game, a stop off at the national stadium was punched in to the Sat Nav in the hope of finding the magic door. Success, and the terraces were empty, for this glorious and humble ground nestled in to the hills (of which there are many), which has seen various 0-8's, a 0-10 and even a 0-13. For the Campionato Sammarinese, match venues are drawn at random so there is no arbitrary home and away, it's decided week to week. I made the stadium after driving on wrong side of the road for further than I should have and once inside, took wrong entrance and ended up on the pitch due to some lingering clouds.
The Campo Sportivo di Fiorentino is a nice ground (as far as I can see), very much one sided with vintage wooden benching either side of a large main stand, which eventually fills up with roughly 30 fans. The loyal and hardy supporters are here to witness top of the table La Fiorita, which roughly translates to the Flower, which feels very San Marino. They were formed in 1936 and are one of the most successful teams, and as Paolo Zanotti (General Director) explains, they have been "Increasing professionalism in every role within our club". His aim is to increase the outside interest in the club and the league and sees a path. "First of all with the results. Passing a round in the preliminaries of the European cups would give a big boost even from the outside". At this moment in time you cannot even see the players warming up, so it's blessed relief as the floodlights splutter into action.
Thankfully, the 'away' team, SC Faetano are in yellow, with blue shorts, playing La Fiortia blue shirt with yellow sleeves. It's easy to see why La Fiortia are top and pushing for the Europe, their No 7 has great pace, exploiting the absurdly high Faetano line. It's 1-0 on 41 minutes, and the only surprise is it took so long. The floodgates are open, and just two minutes later, skilful winger Tommaso Zafferani hits a stunning driven volley from outside the box, the Fiorita faithful applaud, it really is a pleasure to watch his talent in the cold and fog. The dominate performance continued in second half as La Fiorita saunter to a 4-0 lead, and as the night draws in, you can see the clouds forming around the glare of the floodlights. Seeing such passion in a microcosm, in such a tiny nation really is the perfect palate cleanser, during this World Cup. San Marino may be slight, but it offers so much, both with culture, and the beautiful game. The FSGC are very helpful, and they do a wonderful, if not confusing job, of administering the game here.
It's time to return to the fairytale town, and wandering around, you cannot help but notice a plethora of weapons shops selling guns, swords, full assault gear, The Most Serene? I think not.
